"So many oddities exist here," said Arnold Holl, managing director of the ski lift company, as we stood absorbing what little there was of the panorama. "Locals speak with a German dialect and have a German way of thinking. The staff are mostly from Germany. And I drive 20km from Austria, up and over the Oberjoch Pass and through Germany, then back into Austria to work every day. I'm a Tiroler, and for me this is not the Tirol."